Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Top South American Destinations


Each of the countries of South America is unique, offering a number of attractions, scenic marvels, and distinctive cultures. While some cities and areas have world class established tourism infrastructure,  most South America tourism development is much less advanced but rewarding in it's experiences.

In expanding our horizons, with Ecuador as our " central home base " for exploring the many majestic wonders of South America we would like to briefly recap. Our recent articles have focused primarily on areas, and events, of our new home country of Ecuador.  We have much more exploration ahead, although to date we find we have explored and documented 50 % of the top South American destinations and wanted to summarize these adventures and create some further intrigue.  

Countdown fifteen days until this years most important football event in Latin America - COPA America 2011  July 1 -24th hosted by Argentina.  On May 28th Ecuador and Mexico played to a one-one draw in Seattle, and on June 1st Canada and Ecuador tied 2-2 in Toronto.   A full schedule of games is available here :  

Venezuela and Northern Columbia have mixed cultures heavily influenced by the Caribbean cuisine, music, and lifestyle.







Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina, and the Falkland Islands have warmer Atlantic Ocean exposure and varied climates, cultures and attractions, from the Amazonian jungles to the high plains of Patagonia. The highest mountain in South America, awesome waterfalls, glaciers, beach resorts and highly sophisticated European influenced cities.



Western Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Chile face the colder Pacific Ocean, and share the Andes. They have a wide variety of climates, from coastal desert to verdant forests,the Amazon basin, and the Galapagos Archipelago. Vibrant cities, scenic attractions and archaeological ruins attract visitors who enjoy the culture and cuisine.

Bolivia and Paraguay are surrounded ( landlocked ) by the others, although lacking a seacoast, they do have rivers leading to the sea.
   

The ten most popular cities in South America are often points of entry, capital cities, typically representative of their countries,  or have distinctive attractions. Each city has its own distinctive charm and ambiance.

1. Buenos Aires, Argentina

The large, sprawling, sophisticated cosmopolitan capital city of Argentina situated on the banks of the Rio de la Plata has many neighborhoods, each with its own distinct flavor. Major attractions include Recoleta Cemetary - mausoleums of notable citizens including Eva Peron,  Teatro Colon - second largest performing arts theater in the southern hemisphere, Avenida 9 de Julio the widest street in the world anchored by the Obelisk, Plaza de Mayo the original main square of Buenos Aires features European architecture of Casa Rosada, tango dance shows and BBQ argentine beef. 





2. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Rio is spectacularly located, and cariocas and visitors enjoy a vivid lifestyle nestled between fabulous beaches and rainforested hills. We will be visiting when Brazil hosts the FIFA World Cup in 2014.  For additional information now follow the city link above.




3. Santiago, Chile

Chile's capital city is very cosmopolitan, the financial, cultural, and political center of the country. Graced with tree-lined streets, parks, distinctive neighborhoods, and an wide assortment of restaurants and hotels. Plaza de Armas, Cerro Santa Lucia, Parque Forestal, Parque General Bustamente,intriguing Barrio Bellavista, and Parque Metropolitano.   Santiago is near ski resorts and beach resorts, and some of Chile's newly famous wine growing regions. 




4. Sao Paulo, Brazil

South America's largest city , Brazil's center of trade and industry. We will be visiting when Brazil hosts the FIFA World Cup in 2014.  For additional information now follow the city link above.




5. Bogota, Colombia

A mixture of Spanish, English, and Indian cultures and influences Santafé de Bogotá is a city of contrasts. Universities and theaters aside shantytowns, modern highrise buildings next to colonial churches nestled high in the Andes ( 2620 m. - 8646 ft ) The emerald trade is a huge business in Bogotá.



6. Lima, Peru

A wealth of history and culture is often missed in this colonial city of Kings as visitors rush through on their way to Machu Picchu. At this time we too have only passed through its airport so by clicking the city link above will refer you to another information source.


7. Caracas, Venezuela

While other South American countries are romanticized for the Equator, chilean wine, the tango, Machu Picchu or Carnival, Venezuela's reputation is based on oil production, and the brash politicion - President Hugo Chávez. However, there is so much more to Venezuela- it is a country of amazing variety and remains undervisited by international travelers. Caracas the capital and largest city is set in a dramatic setting where the Andes meet the Caribbean Ocean.



8. Cartagena, Colombia


In 1533 Cartagena was one of the first cities founded by the Spaniards in South America. The old walled city and fortress repelled invaders and pirates in its early days. Now it is Colombia's most popular seaside destination welcoming visitors with its colonial charm, energetic nightlife and attractions.





9. Quito, Ecuador

One of our favourite's and certainly most often visited - Ecuador's capital at the middle of the world, some 475 years old, is a mix of colonial history and modern enterprise. It is often described as the most beautiful city in South America. Quito lies in a narrow valley that extends some 80 kilometers in length flanked by snowcapped volcanoes with amazing landscapes. It is an intriguing mix of old and modern. Certainly this was recognized in 1978 when UNESCO designated Quito as the world's first Cultural Heritage Site. A living treasure trove of architectural and colonial treasures.





10. Salvador, Brazil

Impressions of this lively city include Candomble, Baina do Acarages, the water, streets, Cairinhas, architecture and lots of beach time.


Pachamama's Spectrum of Treasures  - Spectacular Natural Wonders of South America

    Amazon

Carving a huge channel through a rainforest which is home to more wildlife species than anywhere else on earth, the Amazon river runs over 4000 miles from its origins to the Atlantic where in one second, it pours more than 55 million gallons of water into the sea. The Amazon basin covers more than two-fifths of South America's land mass.




The rocks and cliffs forming the tepuis were ancient long before the continent of South America separated from Africa. Now they are home to dense rain forests, clouds of mist and huge sandstone formations. From the top of one tepui, an unbroken stream of water forms the highest waterfall in the world taking 14 seconds for the water to fall to the base.
   


Easter Island, off the coast of Chile,  is one of the world's most isolated inhabited islands. A UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its 887 extant monumental statues, called moai.  Additional information on Easter Island








Called the world's greatest living laboratory, these barren islands in the middle of two cold currents support a fantastic array of wildlife that has developed into new forms such as the marine iguana and the flightless cormorant, huge sea turtles, plus sea lions and penguins far from their original habitats.






Multiple falls, formed when the Parana river drops between 197 and 262 feet into the river below, become almost one continuous flow of water when the river runs high.







An inlet from the Caribbean sea, this is the largest lake in South America, extending about 100 miles long and 75 miles wide. Lake Maracaibo was formed from mud deposits millions of years ago and now boasts huge petroleum deposits. Also famous for the unique phenomena of catatumbo lightning.





This high altitude lake, over 12,000 feet high and about 900 feet deep, this is the second largest lake in South America. With an area about 3200 square feet, 122 miles long with an average width of 35 miles, with 36 islands, the lake is reputed to be the highest navigable lake in the world





This " Lost city of the Incas " built in the 1400's  high on a mountain ridge in Peru. This peruvian historical sanctuary has also been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.





    Patagonia

   Patagonia in Argentina and Chile is home to great glaciers, volcanos, glacier fed lakes, and fast rushing rivers. Majestic volcanos like Osorno in Chile, Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina and the fantastic fjords of Chile are all reminders of the wonders of nature. Seen here: Glacier
Patagonia





28,470 square miles in size, separated from the southern tip of the South American mainland by the Strait of Magellan, Tierra del Fuego is cold, windy and wildly scenic.



As we return to our home in Bahia de Caraquez thanks for traveling with us today, and hopefully we will have created some intrigue for you to adventure and experience some of South America's treasures for yourself.

Monday, June 13, 2011

Rio Chone Estuary


The Rio Chone estuary marked by San Vicente on the northern side of the 3 km wide mouth,  Bahia de Caraquez to the south, and San Antonio some 36 km east at the merging of several river sources.  The tributary source is 15 meters wide and fed from 21 different micro-basins.




A roadway flanks the entire estuary and the circular drive, or an open chivas bus crawling snakelike along this route is very scenic.


View Larger Map

Leaving Bahia you will cross the new 2 km bridge,



passing the airport ( often referred to as "new"  - however it has been open for several years but does not yet receive any commercial passenger traffic ) From San Vicente there are good views across the bay.


Ironically the other day San Vicente held a huge parade to celebrate  "Environment Day " it was several miles in length with most of the participants adorning recycled costumes handmade from recycled bottles, newspapers, lottery tickets, tin cans etc... I wish I would have had the camera. Bahia - the self proclaimed eco-city was very quiet without any event.




Over the length of many miles of Rio Chone shoreline the scenery is dominated by vast industrial shrimp farms, agricultural fields of maracuya,




cotton, rice, and yuka.  The shrimp breeding ponds are bordered by brown dams without vegetation.


About 85 % of the mangroves were deforested to make way for shrimp farming. In the Rio Chone estuary the shrimp ponds at the mouth have higher water circulation and enjoy higher growth rates of shrimp than the ponds in the upper regions.


In 90 day cycles just before the full moon the shrimp are  harvested as their new shields are particularly hard and the animals are more resistant for the harvest, and transport to market.

On the northern edge you  pass Puerto Portovelo which is the tour entrance for Isla Corazon.

The estuary has a long history of water quality problems resulting from the seasonal climate influences and mis-management of natural resources.


The estuary is primarily affected  by the influx of sediment from eroding hillsides and the construction of shrimp ponds.


Seasonal climate changes combined with decreased freshwater flow and shrimp aquaculture development  which replaced mangroves and directly discharge wastes into the estuary. Ammonia in shrimp ponds causes high mortality rates and can also cause low growth rates in shrimp. Monocultures in agriculture are susceptible to viruses and bacteria and about a dozen years ago the shrimp farms were devastated with Mancha Blanca. Ecuador, once the second largest exporter in the world,  shrimp production  plummeted by over 60 %.


Mangrove Forests form the transition between sea and land, where their interwoven root systems offer living space, and provide food to a number of animals and plants.


The mangroves biological "waste" (leaves, blossoms and fruits),  supply the first components of the food chain. The daily tide action washes this mud away to the sea to supply new organic substances for the sea life.


Seaweed, snails, shells, fish, birds, crabs, insects and other tiny animals find protection from predators, food and a suitable place for reproduction in these tidal forests.



Many fish species use the mangroves for reproduction. They provide protection, from the open sea, from large predatory fish, and a rich variety of food.  The Snapper spends its entire youth in the tropical coastal mangroves. About two thirds of all fish species living in the sea grow up under the protection of mangroves.


Without the mangroves our marine ecosystem breaks down ultimately affecting you at the top of the food chain. Shrimp in nature, contrasted to industrial breeding, grow up in this complex ecosystem where a large variety of fish, birds and mammals make up a diverse food chain together with the mangroves.















Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Isla Corazon



Many kilometers of new water supply tubing has just being installed from Estancilla to Bahia de Caraquez in order to improve the domestic water situation. Unfortunately poor planning and higher pressures are breaking many existing older service pipes resulting in no community running water for many areas, for two months now. Needless to say the water delivery business with " tanqueros " is booming.

You probably take for granted a reliable water supply,  reliable electricity,  " on-demand " internet,  and a reliable postal service ( here we use airlines and buses ) .  We have learned to appreciate when we have these services in a developing country.

Like any country, Ecuador celebrates several national holidays. Many people are simply excited to have a day off work and school but of course, behind every nationally-proclaimed holiday, there is history.  On May 24th La Batalla de Pichincha ("The Battle of Pinchincha") is celebrated all across Ecuador in a variety of ways. In Bahia we had a large military ceremony in the church square, a parade, several marching bands and several vintage aircraft flying maneuvers over the city. It is a day of national pride and of Ecuadorian patriotism.

The last battle of independence for Ecuador took place during the Spanish colonial period in 1822 on the Pichincha volcano.

In early June a group of local expat residents adventured to Isla Corazón. There are several tour operators to choose from. Essentially they only vary in transportation logistics, snacks or meals, and price ( $ 15 to $ 95 per person ) . National Park Guides for the actual tour by canoe are underemployed fisherman from the small community of Puerto Portovelo. While one can arrange for the tour directly from this community, transportation logistics, and arrangements may be a little difficult for the visitor who is often short of time. You must enter the island at high tide in order to successful navigate the mangrove waterways, and high tides advance by one hour daily. 6:00 a:m or 6:00 p:m tours are not very popular. After carefully weighing the feedback from others who have taken the tour over the last several years, and the various options available we chose to originate our tour from Saiananda.



The timing was also important as this is the start of their annual three month mating season.




From Sainanda we traveled for 20 minutes by Panga up the Chone estuary to Puerto Portovelo.



In Puerto Portovelo is the interpretive centre. There you will see marine aquarium species most representative of the Chone River estuary, as well as an exhibition of photos and a video about the mangroves and the history of the community.


Isla Corazón is a 60 hectare heart shaped island of endangered mangrove swamps located in the estuary of the Chone river.




Consisting of red mangrove, black mangrove, white mangrove, and mangrove red shell.



It was extended thanks to the efforts of restoration of the mangrove swamps by the local fishermen. This same group of fishermen began the tours. We learnt about the local Mangrove Forest and estuary ecosystem, while interacting (and giving back to) the locals.

We then transferred into canoes to silently paddle the entire length of the island through a tunnel of mangroves.



Our ever-friendly and outgoing guides Julio and Luciano pointed out resident bird species, and explained the importance of this rare Río Chone estuary ecosystem.
Mangrove Forests form the transition between sea and land, where their interwoven root systems offer living space, and provide food to a number of animals and plants. The mangroves biological "waste" (leaves, blossoms and fruits),  supply the first components of the food chain. The daily tide action washes this mud away to the sea to supply new organic substances for the sea life.  Seaweed, snails, shells, fish, birds, crabs, insects and other tiny animals find protection from predators, food and a suitable place for reproduction in these tidal forests.

Many fish species use the mangroves for reproduction. They provide protection, from the open sea, from large predatory fish, and a rich variety of food.  The Snapper spends its entire youth in the tropical coastal mangroves. About two thirds of all fish species living in the sea grow up under the protection of mangroves.

Without the mangroves our marine ecosystem breaks down ultimately affecting you at the top of the food chain.

It is a National Wildlife refuge which is home for one of the major colonies of frigates in the Pacific Ocean, and more than 60 species of birds.



Among them, the most common are ibis, herons coroniamarillas night herons, night herons coroninegras, snowy egrets, herons, egrets buyer, cocoi herons, grouse, cormorants,



doves, egrets fluted, butterflies, white bat, big kingfisher kingfisher green, Whimbrel, shoelaces, the Clariona coligrande.


You may also find other species such as iguanas, boa constrictor, the white bat, a wide variety of crustaceans, molluscs and curious insects. We didn't observe any snakes or iguanas.

Exiting the mangrove tunnels we encountered a multitude of birds that live on the isolated natural island and their nesting sites.







The frigates are related to the pelican and have long wings, ( wingspan can reach 4.5 metres ) tails and bills. The males have a red gular pouch that is inflated during the breeding season to attract a mate. With their mating season well underway we observed plenty of quivering puffed red sacks of the male frigate birds who are searching for a suitable (or willing) spouse. (  information on their breeding behaviour )


A boardwalk trail leads to the middle of the mangroves where the native guides tell us about species of plants, crustaceans, molluscs, fish and other organisms that inhabit the mangroves. There is an 18 meter high observation tower, where you can see the full extent of the large mangrove.

We returned by panga to Saiananda's tranquil nature park and enjoyed soup, delicious entre, freshly squeezed juice and key lime dessert.